March 22, 2002
11. Hundred Steps
Hey everyone, remember that time when I decided I might like to learn to play chess, and so I signed up for a competition at work? I only had about 75 days to learn anything beyond the basic rules, and then I discovered that I would be playing against my manager's manager. Hoo boy, that was funny. Seems like only yesterday.
Anyway, the theme of today's travel log is "things that are a hundred steps away from my apartment." It was surprisingly easy to do, although I took some liberties with the distance.
Immediately outside of my apartment and around the corner, I can find the Square du Cardinal Wyszynski (named after Cardinal Stefan Wyszynski, who was active in the resistance in World War II, and who was later imprisoned for his anti-Stalinist opinions). On Sundays, the park is full of parents and children playing in the playground and taking rides on the caroussel (for some reason there are a lot of caroussels in Paris, usually decorated with unlicensed images of Mickey Mouse). In the background, you can see the Gare Montparnasse -- one of the train stations for the high speed train.
On the other side of the square is the Notre-Dame-du-Travail (not the Notre Dame, but a Notre Dame). This church was built in the nineteenth century for the citizens of the fourteenth arrondissement, who were mainly laborers and workers. It shows the gothic influences of classical churches in the city, but the architecture also suggests the industrial iron-and-wood influence of the factories and Eiffel. This touch was deliberate, to remind the workman that they had a place in the church for their spiritual development, as well as in the factory for France's economic development.
The Notre-Dame-du-Travail (Our Lady of Workers) still rings its 0.5 megagram bell from Sébastopol, which was a gift from the Emperor Napoléon III -- spoils from the Crimean War.
Actually, I'm going to make my excuses and go to bed. I had a very enjoyable day walking around my neighbourhood and taking picture, but I'm just not feeling inspired enough to do the write-ups. How about you do the research and include it in the comments?
Vercingetorix was the chief of the Gauls, fighting against the invading Romans fifty years before the birth of Christ. In fact, in 52 BC, he was finally defeated (by superior numbers after a drawn-out battle), and was taken to Rome to lay his weapons at the feet of Julius Ceasar.
I believe that I previously implied that the Tour Montparnasse (a lone skyscraper in the midst of the city) was a failed effort to Manhattanize the area. In fact, soon after its construction, bylaws were passed to prevent any others from being constructed. This picture is a composite, so you can play find-the-glue-lines (there are four).
I stretched my hundred steps to take me to the Montparnasse Cemetery to get some pictures that I'd promised.
Durkheim was a brilliant socialogist. Alright, I don't know what Durkheim theorized, but I'm sure it was brilliant. Regardless of my ignorance of sociology, I'm still alive. Says something, doesn't it?
Emmanuel Chabrier wasn't a prolific composer, but he is one of my favorites. I first heard his España on a compilation CD, where it was mislabeled as Spanish Rhapsody by Ravel. It took the good old Canadian Broadcasting Corporation to set me right.
In fact, most of the plots in the cemetery are for families, so Chabrier shares this space with various other non-composer Chabriers. But he gets his bust on top.
The two most celebrated existentialists, together forever. There are little notes, tokens, flowers, candles and coins on top of the grave (mostly American and English, so bring some Canadian change with you). This picture is one of the few that turned out clear enough to see the names and dates -- you'll notice that they died in the eighties. Simone de Beauvoir might have gone to see E.T.
If you go back to Durkheim's grave, you'll notice that he gets pebbles as tribute instead of pennies.
And finally, the old windmill of the cemetery. The blades of the windmill are long gone, and just the tower is left.
Chabrier, Wyszynski, Sartre, Vercingetorix, de Beauvoir and Durkheim. What were they really like?
How on earth am I going to play a respectable game of chess in two and a half months?
Posted by The Inaccurate Tourist at March 22, 2002 12:00 PM